The use of felt is an essential aspect of understanding the life and culture of Mongolia's nomads, who are descendants of ancient nomads that lived in felt gers. Felt is used for various purposes such as homes, toys, shoes, clothes, accessories, souvenirs, and as a substitute for cotton. Additionally, Mongolian artistic abilities are well reflected in the creation of felt paintings by plucking wool, which is a testament to their aesthetic sense, customs, and worldview.

The felting process is a communal activity, with families working together to accomplish it. The wool from three types of sheep is used for felting, which requires a lot of effort. To make a 2-meter wide and 4-5-meter long felt, approximately 25-30 kg of wool is needed.

The feltmaking practices and customs in Mongolia are called "esgii khiikh ulamjlalt arga" or "feltmaking practice and custom," which is a central communal activity. This intangible cultural heritage is passed down from generation to generation, and nomads consider it an inseparable part of their cultural livelihood. The process of making felt is traditionally done in the last month of summer or the first month of autumn. A flat area is selected, and the same feltmaking site is often used year after year.

The feltmaking process begins with "khoni khyargakh" or "shearing," followed by "noos savakh" or "wool beating." The wool is then wrapped into small skeins called "mushgia". A sheet of old felt is laid out over horsehide, which is used as a model to shape the size of the new felt. This model sheet is called "ekh esgii" or "mother felt," and the new felt overlayed on it is splashed with warm and cold water to shrink and tighten the fabric. This process is called "zulkhailakh" or “laying out the wool."

The felt is then wrapped around a wooden shaft, tightly bound with leather rope in a cross pattern, and rolled up in a stage called "bumburdukh" or "rolling up the felt." A milk offering is poured over the bound felt to start the "esgii tatakh" or "felt drawing" process. A set of cattle horns is attached to the shaft to rotate inside the wrapped wool. As it turns, it tightens the layers of wool.

After this, the felt is unwrapped and stretched out in a process called "esgii jishikh." The next stage is called "khataalga" or "laying out to dry," which greatly influences the color and quality of the felt. The felt is then spread out on the grass to dry, and when the process is complete, it is honored with a small celebration called "esgiin utog".

It is also every family's custom to celebrate this communal activity and mutual exchange of knowledge and experience with their neighbours in larger fashion called esgiin khutaar. All the neighbours gather from dusk to dawn and sing songs, epics and tell folktales throughout the night. Furthermore, esgiin khutaar is a means of transmitting these other nomadic traditions to the children as they listen in their sleep.

Felt has other purposes besides as a covering for the ger. It is also embroidered ornately with a technique called shirekh using thread made from camel wool to make olbog or cushions. These in turn are used as gifts or mats for guests. In this way, Mongolian art has an aesthetic as much as a practical function.

Camel wool rope or zeeg is sewn along the border of the olbog to reinforce as well as to embroider it. Nowadays, the number of traditional sewing patterns or esgii shirmel are increasing, some of which include the toonoljin, ulzii, shurguulga, alkh and tumennasan khee signs, to name but a few.

Sheep wool is a natural material with many benefits for the human body. Mongolians have used it traditionally, and scientific research has shown that it has 15 advantageous properties to human health. These benefits include maintaining warmth in cold weather, keeping cool in hot weather, absorbing sweat, moisture, odors, and toxins from the human body, being fire-resistant, non-electrical, and valuable for kidney disease. Wool is an eco-friendly product that Mongolians have used for a long time to absorb toxic substances, reduce noise, and purify the air.

Geographical Distribution

The Mongolian felt heritage can be defined as the Uriankhai, Oirat, Dorbot, Bait, Khotgoit, Darkhat, Buriat, Khalkh, and Kazakh felt by the different methods of the ethnic groups and by the geographical location of spreading. Although the felt spread and developed in Eurasia it has the peculiarities of the different areas.

Inventorying

The art of "felt making" is acknowledged as an integral part of Mongolia's intangible cultural heritage and has been granted official recognition by the government. The Ministry of Education, Culture, and Science has sanctioned its inclusion in the National Representative List through a series of orders: March 5th, 2010, March 16th, 2011, February 8th, 2013, and November 29th, 2019.

The National Representative Register of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Mongolia was updated and approved on November 29th, 2019. The update, approved by the 759th  Order  Minister of Education, Culture, Science, and Sports, included Annex 1, to renew and update the Register of Intangible Cultural Heritage, and Annex 2, to update the Register of Intangible Cultural Heritage in need of urgent safeguarding.

As a part of this update, "Felt making," also known as "Esgii Khiikh," was added to the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Mongolia under the VII domain Traditional Craftsmanship. This domain comprises several elements related to the felt-making, including No40 Craftsmanship of Felt Art, No41 Craftsmanship of Felt Costumes, No34 Craftsmanship of Traditional Ger Equipment, No35 Craftsmanship of Traditional Kazakh Ger, No36 Craftsmanship of Traditional Buryat House, No37 Craftsmanship of Traditional Ornaments, and No63 Traditional Art of Hemmed Applique.

Moreover, the felt-making is also related to the ICH element Domain VII Traditional Craftsmanship, No3 Traditional Technique and Craftsmanship of Making ‘Ger’ Covering Felt registered under the Register of Intangible Cultural Heritage in need of urgent safeguarding.

Felt-making is a socio-cultural labor ritual that involves various elements spanning several domains, as listed in Article 2.2 of the Convention. The group labor process begins with shearing wool and culminates in a night-long celebration of the felt-making process. It is an oral tradition that relies on language as the primary medium for transmitting techniques and customs. However, not performing art, song, epic, and storytelling are integral to the ceremonial stages of felt-making practices. Thus, the event is a social practice where families gather to exchange knowledge throughout the day and night.

Registered Practitioners

Publications and researches

8. Dictionary of Mongolian custo

11. The Path of Creation - About Crafts and Craftsmen, Dorjkhand.Kh